New Bolts Milk Cow Blues

New Bolts Milk Cow Blues

Potrero Chico Climbing Guides with the help of ASCA, Mark Grundon , Chuy Gill Martinez, Jeremy Lubkin and Yannick Gingras replaced the belay anchors and first 2 bolts on Milk Cow Blues.

Milk Cow Blues 5.10c

The route starts at the top of Vandals Ledge which requires some scrambling to get to. The start has anchors for the belayer, the first one we removed ended up looking pretty good but the second bolt broke fairly easy while trying to remove it (it was time).

The FA belongs to Rodney Blakemore, he put up the route in 1997. It’s a very popular route so we thought it should be at the top of the the list for getting some new hardwear.

Bus To Potrero Chico

Bus To Potrero Chico
Central De Autobuses

The Hidalgo bus station is closed and Mina Bus Lines is no longer operational. Read below for the new beta.

The only option I am aware of now is taking the Greyhound to the station in Escobedo and and then cathcing the Ruta to Hidalgo/Mina, it’s the number 53 and 170 buses. Take a left out of the Greyhound station and cross under the footbridge to catch it.

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El Potrero Chico Snow Day

El Potrero Chico Weather

El Potrero Chico Weather
Super Nova In The Snow

El Potrero Chico weather can be very strange sometimes. I’ve woken some mornings to find cloudy skies with a polite rain coming down and I drive five minutes into the canyon and find a blue hole in the sky with sunny skies and dry walls waiting to be sent.

El Potrero Chico Snow Day

To add to that strangeness we had a snow day in El Potrero Chico on December 8th. That’s right you  read right a snow day! We woke up to 6 to 7 inches of white powder all over the the landscape.  I know for a lot of you this is normal but here in El Potrero Chico it’s anything but. It hasn’t snowed here since 1997. Continue reading “El Potrero Chico Snow Day”

Clean Up Potrero Chico

Clean Up Potrero Chico

Escalada Sustentable and Potrero Chico Climbing Guides organized a clean up in Potrero Chico. This was part of a larger campaign put on by Acceso PanAm called Clean Our Mountains. Clean ups were happening all over North and South America during the week of Sept. 15th -23rd.

Escalada Sustentable is  a new local association dedicated to minimizing the impact the climbers (everyone really) have on the environment.

Continue reading “Clean Up Potrero Chico”

Quickdraw McDraw Potrero Chico

Quickdraw McDraw Potrero Chico

Karla Moya and I added new anchors to the 1st pitch of QuickDraw McGraw Central Scrutinizer Wall, Potrero Chico México.

It’s a popular route for beginners. We use it a lot in our climbing classes.

FA:Team Hilti 2 pitch route 1st pitch is 5.10a (more like a 9) and the second is 5.11a. Continue reading “Quickdraw McDraw Potrero Chico”

Potrero Chico Gear Beta

Potrero Chico Gear
Potrero Chico Gear

Potrero Chico Gear Beta

Below is a list of gear you’ll need for your trip to Potrero Chico. It’s almost all sport climbing here so you don’t need much. Please remember to tie knots in the ends of your rope and use your helmet.  If you hire us as guides we provide everything for our clients, of course you can use your own personal gear if you choose to. 
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Potrero Chico Rest Day

Potrero Chico Rest Day

Let’s face it at some point you’ll need a rest. A Potrero Chico rest day doesn’t need to be boring. Here are some points of interest as well as a map with all of these suggestions marked.
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The Climber in the Unicorn Suit

Edit: We now know the unicorn climber sighted in Potrero Chico is a different unicorn. Thanks Adam!

https://www.facebook.com/unicornsacrosstheuniverse/

Unicorn Climber

I can’t be sure but I think Karla Moya and I saw the mythical unicorn climber rock climbing in Potrero Chico. We were climbing Las Chumuelas and they were spotted on Jungle Mountaineering, two of them.  I heard one of them say “unicorn lives matter too”. Continue reading “The Climber in the Unicorn Suit”